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MODEL FILES · DATE CODES · VERDICTS

THE BENCH WHERE
BAGS GET DATED.

One file per model: documented history, construction, hardware, and the date-code doctrine. No prices, no listings feed — the file reads the same in ten years, and a date code is not authentication.

Icons on file

MODELINTRODUCEDWHY IT MATTERS
Chanel 2.55 (Original)1955The bag that started the modern handbag
Chanel Classic Flap (Medium)c. 1983THE Chanel
Chanel 2.55 Reissue (226)2005The fiftieth-anniversary return of the original
Louis Vuitton Keepall (55)c. 1924The bag that ended the trunk era
Louis Vuitton Speedy (30)c. 1930Born in 1930 as the Express
Louis Vuitton Speedy (25)c. 1959The Audrey Hepburn size
Louis Vuitton Neverfull (MM)2007The 2007 tote that became the default luxury bag of its era
Hermès Kelly (28)c. 1935Born the Sac à dépêches around 1935 (some histories say 1928) and renamed in 1977 for the princess who used it to shield her pregnancy from photographers in a 1956 photograph seen around the world
Hermès Birkin (30)1984Sketched on an Air France flight in 1984 after Jane Birkin's basket spilled
Gucci Bamboo 1947 (Small)1947Born of postwar material shortage
Gucci Jackie 1961 (Medium)c. 1961Born in the 1950s as the Fifties Constance and remade by fame in 1961, when Jacqueline Kennedy was photographed using hers to shield herself from paparazzi
Dior Lady Dior (Medium)1995The bag that was renamed twice
Dior Saddle1999Galliano's equestrian provocation for the Spring 2000 show became the defining Y2K it-bag, went quiet for a decade, and returned in 2018 to open the archive-revival era the whole industry then copied
Prada Vela Backpack1984The bag that made industrial fabric a luxury object: Miuccia Prada's 1984 nylon backpack, sold unbranded in a marketplace of gilded leather, took a decade to become an it bag and then rewrote what the word meant
Prada Re-Edition 20052019The revival that led the Y2K wave: the discontinued mini hobo reissued in 2019 with a chain, a pouch, and archival year names
Prada Galleria2007The structured saffiano flagship, named for the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II arcade where Mario Prada opened the first shop in 1913
Balenciaga Firstc. 2001The bag Balenciaga's executives rejected: shown on the Fall 2001 runway as the Le Dix Motorcycle Lariat, saved by Kate Moss, first produced as a run of 25
Balenciaga Cityc. 2002The definitive it bag of the 2000s
Balenciaga Le City2024The 2024 revival, launched back into Kate Moss's hands: more polished and less punk than the original, and the fourth dormant-years comeback in this site's files
Fendi Baguette1997The bag credited with inventing the It bag: designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi in 1997, immortalized on Sex and the City in 2000, relaunched in 2019
Fendi Spy2005The boho-era grail: 2005, secret compartments and rope-woven handles, a short production run that ended with the era and turned every surviving example into a Y2K collector chase
Fendi Peekabooc. 2009The house flagship, born as the quiet-luxury answer to logomania
Celine Luggage2010Phoebe Philo's first It bag, launched for Spring 2010 and the defining tote of her decade; the Nano, Micro and Mini sizes each arrived with their own birthdays, and the model's discontinuation in the Slimane era fixed the supply the resale market now trades on
Celine Trapezec. 2010The references split its debut between 2010 and 2011, and its exit is a window rather than a date, with late 2017 the recorded end of the line: a bag whose file opens and closes in disputes, which is exactly why it dates well
Celine Classic Box2011Philo's 2011 reissue of a 1970s archive shape, the quiet legend of logo-free luxury; the Slimane era added the Teen size in 2018, dimensioned for the phones of that year, and the market record books the model's discontinuation in 2023
Celine Triomphec. 2018Celine Vipiana drew the double-C emblem from the chain around the Arc de Triomphe in 1971; it sat dormant for five decades until Hedi Slimane returned it as this bag's clasp, and the references split the bag's own release between 2018 and 2019
Bottega Veneta Knot1978Originally from 1978 and reissued across every era since, which makes the Knot a layered file: the model is one of the oldest in the house, but any individual example dates by its era's materials and finish, not by the design
Bottega Veneta Cabat2001Tomas Maier's 2001 manifesto tote, built to show that the weave could be the whole bag: woven double-faced so the inside is as finished as the outside, with nothing written on it anywhere
Bottega Veneta Venetac. 2002The references do not pin its first season, which this file records as a corridor in the early Maier years; in 2006 Jodie Foster raised a black one against the New York paparazzi and the photograph eventually named this bag's own successor
Bottega Veneta Pouch2019Daniel Lee's Spring 2019 debut statement and the bag the trade credits with starting the new-Bottega era: the whole model is a demonstration that a bag with nothing written on it could still be the most recognizable clutch of its season
Bottega Veneta Cassettec. 2019The padded Cassette is the Lee era's most copied silhouette and the cleanest exhibit of the maxi weave as a date: the padded, enlarged intrecciato did not exist before the new-Bottega years, so the construction itself is the era stamp
Bottega Veneta Jodie2020Launched for Spring 2020 and named for Jodie Foster, who shielded her face from New York photographers in 2006 with a black Veneta; the knot on the handle is usually read as her fist gathering the bag, but it actually cites the house's own knot motif going back to the 1978 minaudiere

The maisons

The file fills in one maison at a time. Greyed files are open but not yet written.

The tools

From the file

Method

BagFile records what was made: the model, its documented introduction, its construction, and the date-code system that places an individual bag in time. Maisons publish far less history than they manufacture, so approximate dates are marked "c." and the file cites what can be documented. Model files anchor on history rather than this season's catalog, which keeps a page for an in-production model as permanent as one for a discontinued reference. And the doctrine on every page: a date code is not authentication — it is where inspection begins.

The listing expires. The file does not.