MODEL FILES · DATE CODES · VERDICTS

THE BENCH WHERE
BAGS GET DATED.

One file per model: documented history, construction, hardware, and the date-code doctrine. No prices, no listings feed — the file reads the same in ten years, and a date code is not authentication.

Icons on file

MODELINTRODUCEDWHY IT MATTERS
Chanel 2.55 (Original)1955The bag that started the modern handbag
Chanel Classic Flap (Medium)c. 1983THE Chanel
Chanel 2.55 Reissue (226)2005The fiftieth-anniversary return of the original
Louis Vuitton Keepall (55)c. 1924The bag that ended the trunk era
Louis Vuitton Speedy (30)c. 1930Born in 1930 as the Express
Louis Vuitton Speedy (25)c. 1959The Audrey Hepburn size
Louis Vuitton Neverfull (MM)2007The 2007 tote that became the default luxury bag of its era
Hermès Kelly (28)c. 1935Born the Sac à dépêches around 1935 (some histories say 1928) and renamed in 1977 for the princess who used it to shield her pregnancy from photographers in a 1956 photograph seen around the world
Hermès Birkin (30)1984Sketched on an Air France flight in 1984 after Jane Birkin's basket spilled
Gucci Bamboo 1947 (Small)1947Born of postwar material shortage
Gucci Jackie 1961 (Medium)c. 1961Born in the 1950s as the Fifties Constance and remade by fame in 1961, when Jacqueline Kennedy was photographed using hers to shield herself from paparazzi
Dior Lady Dior (Medium)1995The bag that was renamed twice
Dior Saddle1999Galliano's equestrian provocation for the Spring 2000 show became the defining Y2K it-bag, went quiet for a decade, and returned in 2018 to open the archive-revival era the whole industry then copied
Prada Vela Backpack1984The bag that made industrial fabric a luxury object: Miuccia Prada's 1984 nylon backpack, sold unbranded in a marketplace of gilded leather, took a decade to become an it bag and then rewrote what the word meant
Prada Re-Edition 20052019The revival that led the Y2K wave: the discontinued mini hobo reissued in 2019 with a chain, a pouch, and archival year names
Prada Galleria2007The structured saffiano flagship, named for the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II arcade where Mario Prada opened the first shop in 1913
Balenciaga Firstc. 2001The bag Balenciaga's executives rejected: shown on the Fall 2001 runway as the Le Dix Motorcycle Lariat, saved by Kate Moss, first produced as a run of 25
Balenciaga Cityc. 2002The definitive it bag of the 2000s
Balenciaga Le City2024The 2024 revival, launched back into Kate Moss's hands: more polished and less punk than the original, and the fourth dormant-years comeback in this site's files

The maisons

The file fills in one maison at a time. Greyed files are open but not yet written.

The tools

From the file

Method

BagFile records what was made: the model, its documented introduction, its construction, and the date-code system that places an individual bag in time. Maisons publish far less history than they manufacture, so approximate dates are marked "c." and the file cites what can be documented. Model files anchor on history rather than this season's catalog, which keeps a page for an in-production model as permanent as one for a discontinued reference. And the doctrine on every page: a date code is not authentication — it is where inspection begins.

The listing expires. The file does not.